Keep your natural bed or futon clean and dry, and it will stay strong and comfortable for a long time. Moisture is the enemy of natural fibers, particularly body moisture, and a person can lose up to a pint of body moisture during every sleeping session. Most of this moisture is in our breath and our sweat, and the release of this moisture is one of the body's ways of releasing some of the toxins it accumulated during the day. Unprotected, the natural fibers in your bed will readily absorb this waste-laden moisture, sticking together, clumping, compacting, and losing all their natural resilience. A futon that absorbs body moisture over time can become terribly hard and dip out in the area most slept upon, making it a less than desirable place to sleep.

If you notice some light moisture buildup in your bed, you can put your futon outside in the sun, place it on a rack or bench to allow the air to circulate around it, and sun-bake it on each side for an hour or two so that any residual dampness evaporates. Then, whack it uniformly with a tennis racket (or your favorite stick) to help break up any sticky saline clumps. If the moisture buildup is prolonged and heavy and the sun offers insufficient rejuvenation, call us to see if we can rebuild the futon for you.

The best defense against any moisture building up in your bed in the first place is to use a cotton or wool mattress pad between your body and the futon. That way, any body moisture will go into the pad and not into your mattress. Using a 100% natural mattress pad will keep your bed clean and dry, dry, dry. Our cotton mattress pads are absorbent, washable, and sturdy enough to last you for years. Our organic wool mattress pads have the unique ability to absorb and disperse water vapor, yet they actively repel water droplets so your bed will be doubly protected. Using one of each is a favorite choice for use in cribs and toddlers' beds.

Ideally, wash your mattress pad weekly or every time you wash your sheets. If you don't want to wash it every week, just put it in the dryer for a full cycle on the weeks you don't wash it. The most important thing is that it stays very dry so it can, in turn, keep your bed very dry.

Now, using a department store mattress pad with synthetic polyfill quilting is certainly better than nothing, but polyester doesn't absorb moisture, and polyester can reflect body heat, making you sleep hotter and causing you to perspire even more. This may not be a problem for every individual, but we feel that if synthetics against the skin while sleeping can be avoided, it's a good thing.

Even if you are vigilant about using your cotton mattress pad, you should still occasionally put your natural bed in the sun once or twice a year. Sunlight does an amazing job of reinvigorating the cotton and wool in a natural bed - wool especially regains a lot of springiness when it sits in the sun. Plus, sunlight kills dust mites and mildew spores, so there are numerous benefits to sunning your futon. Put your futon out on a sunny day with as much air circulating around it as possible (suspended over several chairs, on a hammock, or on a picnic table), and you will fill your natural bed with fresh air and new life. Of course, never leave your futon out overnight.

Flip and rotate your natural bed regularly - every week for the first month or two, and at least once a month after that. We all have our favorite part of the bed, and we tend to sleep there every night. This results in one part of the bed working harder at supporting your weight than the rest of it, which can prematurely compact that particular area. So, to make sure your futon wears evenly, flip your bed so you use both the top and bottom, and rotate your bed so you use both ends. Alternate flipping and rotating every other month, and your bed and body will thank you.

Keep your natural fiber bed off non-breathable solid surfaces to avoid condensation. Our bodies warm up our beds at night. Solid surfaces, such as floors, solid plywood or boat berths do not warm up at the same rate. This results in accumulation of condensation that cannot fully dry out, and that can not only lead to compaction, but to the growth of mold and mildew.

Every bed, and most importantly natural fiber beds, need some air space under them. Even an inch is enough to allow for some circulation. For people that want to sleep as close to the floor as possible or need the least expensive solution, a set of one-by-four or one-by-three pine slats work just fine: simply lay them on the floor under your futon. Space the slats no more than three inches apart. This gives the bed enough room to breathe without there being so much space that you feel gaps in support. Another great floor-sleeping option for a breathable futon foundation is to place it on a tatami mat. These mats, made of compressed rice straw and woven rush grass have been used for centuries in Japan as a durable, breathable surface for traditional futons. Although it should be mentioned that the tatami mat should also be placed on slats and not directly on the floor.

In keeping with Japanese tradition, to further assure any nighttime condensation under your bed will completely evaporate, you can also pick your futon up every morning and let the space underneath it air out during the day (this is easiest with thinner, 3" to 6" futons without foam or latex cores, since beds with cores are a little harder to fold). The best way to fold a futon is to fold it in thirds: think the shape of an 'S' or a 'Z'. This naturally stretches the middle of the futon, which fluffs the slept-on fibers, plus these are the most compact sizes and shapes for storage.

If condensation is allowed to accumulate between the bottom of an unflipped futon and a solid surface, mold and mildew can begin to grow. Mold and mildew - mold, in particular - have the potential to cause a number of health problems and can affect each person differently. Allergic reactions are most common, but mold can also cause asthma attacks and severe illness in sensitive individuals.

Can a futon with mold on the case be saved? Well, it's possible, but since mold and mildew spores are microscopic, it's very likely that once they've grown numerous enough to be seen, it's too late. Unfortunately, the best solution for your health is probably to replace your mattress.

Unfortunately, we can't refurbish or rebuild a moldy or mildewed futon because we can't take the chance of any spores contaminating our work area. But if there's just a trace of mildew or mold starting to appear, steps can be taken to save your bed at home.

First, take the futon outdoors. Direct sunlight will help kill mold and mildew. Brush the affected area with a broom or brush to remove loose spores, then use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to remove any remaining loose spores. Be sure to wear gloves, eye protection, and breathing protection when doing this (ideally an N-95 respirator, available at hardware stores).

Next, sponge lightly with a solution of detergent and warm water, then dab with clean water and allow to dry in direct sunlight or with a hairdryer. Avoid touching moldy items with your bare hands.

If you can, apply either hydrogen peroxide or bleach (diluted with water to whatever strength you feel comfortable with) directly to the affected area (a paintbrush works well for this), then let it dry in direct sunlight or with a hairdryer.

A final vacuuming after the bed is completely dry is a good idea - even dead spores can cause allergic reactions.

Dust mites are one of the most common sources of household allergens. They are microscopic creatures that live in any soft material, upholstery, carpet, or stuffing, and they eat dead skin cells that regularly slough off our bodies. The mites produce excrement containing a proteins that can cause allergic reactions. Dust mites love beds where they have a warm, damp environment and plenty of food. The good news? It's relatively easy to keep dead skin, moisture and dust mites out of your bed.

Basically, it comes down to frequent vacuuming with a hepa filter-equipped vacuum cleaner, making sure your home environment isn't too humid, removing cloth items from your bedroom, and most of all, wash wash wash! Wash your bedding at least every other week in the hottest water your system can produce. 130-degree water kills dust mites, and the rinse cycle removes their bodies and feces. Also, two of the natural materials that we can include in your Soaring Heart natural bed—wool and latex—are great for limiting dust mites. Dust mites don't thrive well in either material.

Here's a great tip: as you remove the mattress pad and the sheets, fold all corners toward the center of the bed. Avoid pulling the sheets off the bed quickly, because this lofts the dead skin collected in the bedding so it can settle back onto the bed and feed dust mites. You can throw a clean sheet over the bed while you wash the linens, to protect it from airborne dead skin cells, or make up your bed with fresh bedding immediately.

For those with extreme dust mite allergies, it may not be possible to eradicate enough of the allergens the create without employing some synthetics, such as a laminated cotton fitted sheet, to create a barrier between the body and the bed, preventing dust mites from having access to their favorite food source. More information and tips for relieving dust mite allergies can be found here.

Sometimes accidents do happen that affect your bed, from spilling orange juice to a pet mistaking your futon for their litter box. In case of accidents like these, the best thing to do is to spot clean the case with water and mild detergent, then liberally saturate the soiled area with rubbing alcohol and then allow it to dry. The alcohol will sanitize the area, and it will evaporate faster than the spill in question.